Toadstools and Fairy Rings: Free Pattern: Cabled Archery Cuff

Mirin asked me to knit him a special cuff for protecting his arm when he is practicing archery. If the bow is not drawn correctly, the string can snap back on your wrist. I made a pattern for it and added a pretty cable (there was some good math I got Mirin to help with for homeschool!). It turned out nicely, and I thought I would share the very simple pattern I created. Of course it would be great just as a wrist warmer, in case you don't have any boys who love archery on your hands. This is the first pattern I've ever shared (I thought I should add that).

I made it rather tight-fitting because I knew he would not want it to flop around on his arm. The width can be easily modified by adding more stitches (5 per inch) to be evenly distributed on Needle 1 and Needle 3. It is knitted in the round with four double-pointed needles.

NOTE: This pattern has not been tested by anyone, but I have knitted it twice now and it turned out beautiful! It's not terribly complicated.

Yarn: 1 skein Brown Sheep Company "Oats n'Cream" superwash (left over from my Phoebe Mouse project!)

Gauge: 5st/inch and about 6 1/2 rows/inch in stocking stitch

Needles: US 5 or 3.75 MM. I suffered through with only 5" long needles I had bought from the Phoebe Mouse project, but they were a little on the short side.

Arm Measurements: The measurements I went with were:

Forearm 9" around
Wrist 6" around
Wrist to Forearm 7"

Pattern: (See below for cable chart and written cable instructions)

1. Cast on 48 stitches and divide evenly between three needles (that's 16 st per needle if you are like me don't want to do the math!). Join for working in the round, making sure the stitches aren't twisted. You could place a marker for the beginning of the round, but I always use the tail from the long-tail cast-on.

2. Knit all stitches on needle 1 (N1)

3. K 2 st on needle 2 (N2), place a marker, work first row of cable pattern over 12 stitches (see below), place a marker, K last 2 stitches on N2. (This helped me orient the cable pattern, especially when I was reading to the children and knitting at the same time! You could also skip the markers and just K 2 before working the pattern, with 2 left to knit at the end).

4. K all sts on N3.

5. Keep working as established, K all stitches on N1 and N3 and working the cable pattern on N2 until row 10.

6. 1st reduction row 10 (you will be on row 4 of cable pattern - one where you will K all sts anyway): K 2 tog, knit until 2 st remain on N3, SSK.

7. Continue as established, with reductions as described above every 10th row. It helped me to write down which row I would be on the cabling pattern so I could keep track of it:

2nd reduction: R 20 of cuff, R 2 of cable pattern

3rd: R 30 of cuff, R 6 of pattern

4th: R 40 of cuff, R 4 of pattern

5th: R 50 of cuff, R 2 of pattern

6th: R 60 of cuff, R 6 if pattern

7th: R 70 of cuff, R 4 of pattern

After the 7th reduction row, work the rest of the cable chart to R 5. Bind off on R 6 of cable chart. (unless you need the cuff to be longer. In that case, I would suggest keep knitting and try to work in the cast-off for the 6th row, because it looks nicer that way with the pattern). Weave in ends.

The cable chart is worked 12 times over 72 rows.

Cabling Pattern Written Out:

1. Sl 2 st to CN and hold in Front; K2, K2 from CN. K 4 sts. Sl 2 st onto CN and hold to back; K2, K2 from CN

2. K all sts

3. K2, sl 2 sts onto CN and hold in front; K2, K2 from CN. Sl 2 st onto CN and hold in Back, K2, K2 from CN, K2.

4. K all sts.

5. K 4, sl 2 sts onto CN and hold in Front; K2, K2 from CN, K4

6. K all sts.

Cabling Chart: (Not super high-tech here, I just wrote it out by hand). I apologize for my awful handwriting.